These are some comments/observations that I would pass onto fellow enthusiasts who are considering such a project. This is my third Capri restoration, all of which have been different and different in the end result. I would also add that in my past life I was a teacher, so I don’t have the advantage of having the knowledge that a mechanic, au to electrician or panel beater might have.
1. Never underestimate the time & cost involving such a project.
As I have already stated in my other blog relating to my Green Capri, these jobs always take a lot longer & cost a lot more money that one originally estimates. I am retired & have the time to devote to such a job, so if you don’t have the time or the money or the patience, don’t do it. Time wise this project took in the vicinity of 300 hrs (conservative calculation based on a daily log) over 6 months. Also, if you have seen pictures of the car, a lot of work had already been done. I am also not talking about a car that has been done to concourse standard.
As I have already stated in my other blog relating to my Green Capri, these jobs always take a lot longer & cost a lot more money that one originally estimates. I am retired & have the time to devote to such a job, so if you don’t have the time or the money or the patience, don’t do it. Time wise this project took in the vicinity of 300 hrs (conservative calculation based on a daily log) over 6 months. Also, if you have seen pictures of the car, a lot of work had already been done. I am also not talking about a car that has been done to concourse standard.
2. Take plenty of pictures of the car in its original state, label & keep all parts, fittings, screws, nuts & clips in groups.
By the time you come to putting things back, there are some things that you won’t remember about where they went so pictures do come in handy. Some items on Capris are easily replaced but others are extremely rare (exterior trim clips). Also, becau se of the old Imperial threads, some nuts & bolts are a bit difficult to track down.
This car had a bit of history to it in that it involved the present painted shell being fitted with parts from a donor damaged car. Apparently this had started many years ago (I think about 18 years), and several different people have since been involved in the process. I had to sort through boxes, bins & containers of parts, fittings, screws & clips to find what I was after & this was time consuming. Some parts were missing & these were difficult to source. (eg. the nut to hold on the steering wheel)
By the time you come to putting things back, there are some things that you won’t remember about where they went so pictures do come in handy. Some items on Capris are easily replaced but others are extremely rare (exterior trim clips). Also, bec
This car had a bit of history to it in that it involved the present painted shell being fitted with parts from a donor damaged car. Apparently this had started many years ago (I think about 18 years), and several different people have since been involved in the process. I had to sort through boxes, bins & containers of parts, fittings, screws & clips to find what I was after & this was time consuming. Some parts were missing & these were difficult to source. (eg. the nut to hold on the steering wheel)
3. It is often much easier to recondition/replace the original parts than to modify with non standard type parts or fittings.Let me explain what I mean by giving some examples from this car.
This car had been almost completely rewired. However, instead of using the originalCapri indicator/ignition switch unit located on the steering column, a latter model Falcon module with wipers/indicators/hazard lights had been fitted and wired in. This meant that a separate place had to be found for the ignition switch, horn & choke control. (See the pictures of my small panel on the RH side of the dash.) The car had also been fitted with an additional interior fuse panel which also was fitted under the dash on the RH side. This cau sed me lots of grief as it interfered with the fitting of the front parcel tray & the location of the bonnet pull lever.
The wiring also confused the function of the dash switches & this took a long time working out what was wired to each switch. (eg. the main light switch is now the top switch on the dash panel, the fan motor switch works the fan & the electric windscreen washers).
A 6 gau ge GT dashboard had also been retro fitted & whilst most of the wiring was complete, the tachometer wiring was still a mystery.
The rewiring also cau sed a number of problems with the engine electrics as the former inbuilt resistor wire had to be replaced with an external ballast resistor near the coil.
So, again, if the original wiring plan had been kept & the same type of ignition/indicator unit been maintained, the task would have been much easier.
This car had been almost completely rewired. However, instead of using the original
The wiring also confused the function of the dash switches & this took a long time working out what was wired to each switch. (eg. the main light switch is now the top switch on the dash panel, the fan motor switch works the fan & the electric windscreen washers).
A 6 g
The rewiring also c
So, again, if the original wiring plan had been kept & the same type of ignition/indicator unit been maintained, the task would have been much easier.
4. A suitable undercover work area is preferable for any restoration project.
Due to my fleet of cars & yard space, I was unable to have a permanent undercover area vacant for the duration of this job. I did have a temporary cover erected but it was not really wet weather proof and, consequently, my schedule was interrupted on a number of occasions.
Due to my fleet of cars & yard space, I was unable to have a permanent undercover area vacant for the duration of this job. I did have a temporary cover erected but it was not really wet weather proof and, consequently, my schedule was interrupted on a number of occasions.
5. Be wary of cars stored for long periods of time.
This car had been stored for a long period of time & consequently, many items that had stored fluids needed replacing or thorough cleaning. Eg.
- fuel systems (tanks, lines, fuel pumps & carbies)
- brake systems (master cylinder, booster, wheel cylinders, lines, hoses, callipers)
- engine cooling (radiator, water pump, thermostat, welch plugs, hoses)
On this car, most of these had to replaced and/or cleaned.
This car had been stored for a long period of time & consequently, many items that had stored fluids needed replacing or thorough cleaning. Eg.
- fuel systems (tanks, lines, fuel pumps & carbies)
- brake systems (master cylinder, booster, wheel cylinders, lines, hoses, callipers)
- engine cooling (radiator, water pump, thermostat, welch plugs, hoses)
On this car, most of these had to replaced and/or cleaned.
6. Be sure you have the correct replacement part.
When replacing parts, just check that the replacement part is correct. Most items don’t cau se any hassles but with many parts now being sourced from overseas, sometimes there are minor differences that cau se you grief. Also with the 1600 Capris, there are some minor variations with different year models. I had problems with a water pump, some brake parts & a new gear lever. (I have since found out that there are 4 different sizes of thread for these).
When replacing parts, just check that the replacement part is correct. Most items don’t c
7. Completing the interior needs to follow some sequence.
I will best explain this by the following examples:
A. If you need to replace or fit the roof lining, then it needs to be done before replacing/fitting the front & rear windscreens. B. Before actually fitting the roof lining, measure where all the screw holes for the fittings, such as the grab handles, sun visors & interior mirror, are & ensure that the screw retainers are in place. (I didn’t do this & it took ages to locate the correct place.)
C. Do all the work under & behind the dashboard before anything else. Eg. wipers, heater, brake booster, clutch & accelerator cables. This is also much easier with the steering wheel taken off.D. Get all the seat belt anchor belts sorted before you put in the underfelt or rear seats.
E. Measure or mark where holes in the floor are before fitting the seats or the centre console.
F. Leave the front passenger seat out as long as you can as that means you can still get behind the dash if you have to.
G. The front parcel tray is the last thing to go in & you hope that everything is working & it doesn’t have to come out again in a hurry.
I will best explain this by the following examples:
A. If you need to replace or fit the roof lining, then it needs to be done before replacing/fitting the front & rear windscreens. B. Before actually fitting the roof lining, measure where all the screw holes for the fittings, such as the grab handles, sun visors & interior mirror, are & ensure that the screw retainers are in place. (I didn’t do this & it took ages to locate the correct place.)
C. Do all the work under & behind the dashboard before anything else. Eg. wipers, heater, brake booster, clutch & accelerator cables. This is also much easier with the steering wheel taken off.
E. Measure or mark where holes in the floor are before fitting the seats or the centre console.
F. Leave the front passenger seat out as long as you can as that means you can still get behind the dash if you have to.
G. The front parcel tray is the last thing to go in & you hope that everything is working & it doesn’t have to come out again in a hurry.
8. Each Capri is different.
Don’t assume that even though they may be the same year & model, they will be the same as you will discover little differences & they may affect how you do things. This was very evident when we tried to fit front retractable seat belts to this car. I discovered when trying to fit the rear interior window trims that this body was actually a 1969 model. The door pillars are narrower than later models, preventing the placement of the upper seat anchor point. (They are located behind the front seat in the rear side panel) The 1970 model has a wider door pillar that can accommodate the top seat belt anchor bolt.
Don’t assume that even though they may be the same year & model, they will be the same as you will discover little differences & they may affect how you do things. This was very evident when we tried to fit front retractable seat belts to this car. I discovered when trying to fit the rear interior window trims that this body was actually a 1969 model. The door pillars are narrower than later models, preventing the placement of the upper seat anchor point. (They are located behind the front seat in the rear side panel) The 1970 model has a wider door pillar that can accommodate the top seat belt anchor bolt.
9. Join a car club.
Join a club with members who have some knowledge of your type of car. Members can provide lots of good advice & often have hard to get parts. I could not have completed this project without the assistance of club members.
10. Don’t do another one!
Several people have asked what my next project is. At the moment, I am totally cured of the “disease” & have no intention of doing another one. No more & I would need a really strong right upper cut if I even considered it. I would also have some serious explaining to do to family members.
Join a club with members who have some knowledge of your type of car. Members can provide lots of good advice & often have hard to get parts. I could not have completed this project without the assistance of club members.
10. Don’t do another one!
Several people have asked what my next project is. At the moment, I am totally cured of the “disease” & have no intention of doing another one. No more & I would need a really strong right upper cut if I even considered it. I would also have some serious explaining to do to family members.
No comments:
Post a Comment